Departing from the large, deep bay of Limnos, we'll stop at the small, secluded Agios Efstratios, a rare example of authentic Greece, untouched by mass tourism. Because of its remoteness from the mainland, it was chosen by Greek dictatorial regimes as a place to deport political "dissidents," especially communists and trade unionists, but also intellectuals, journalists, and writers, starting in the 1920s. It remained a place of political exile until the early 1960s. Just like the Italian island of Ventotene during Fascism. At least 5,000 people, perhaps many more, suffered that fate. A visit to the Museum of Democracy, which recalls that terrible past, is moving.
With a touch of nostalgia, we'll cross the stretch of sea that separates it from the Sporades, a magnificent archipelago in northern Greece. We'll discover some of the many wonderful beaches and bays of Kira Panagia, Alonissos, Skiathos, and Skopelos, where forests plunge into the sea. Many of them were made famous by the film Mamma Mia.
Kira Panagia and Peristera are the first islands we'll encounter. Alonissos, which we'll visit immediately afterward, is perhaps the archipelago's wildest: a true paradise for lovers of nature, pristine bays, and traditional cultures. Patiriri, meaning "wine press," is the main town. Its museum, filled with ancient nautical charts and traditional costumes, also houses a rare collection of pirate weapons. Skopelos: a mosaic of pine forests, olive groves, and vineyards, has preserved its landscape and the tranquil, welcoming pace that has made it delightful and a favorite setting for filmmakers. Skiathos, with its splendid white-sand beaches framed by hills covered in pine trees and olive groves, is truly breathtaking.
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